A returning father-daughter team came to us looking to up their game, and up it they did. The request was founded by the 13-year-old daughter. She had had her sights set on topping out on the notorious Huntington Ravine for a while. The initial plan was to take on Central Gully if the ice bulge was mostly snow covered, which it was not. Plan B was to ascend via Diagonal Gully and that’s what the team took on. It, too, had an ice bulge but it was at the start and can be skirted. This part of the route was protected with the use of pickets and their use continued, for safety reasons. Speaking to the father after the fact revealed that they were still reeling by the experience the next day and recognized that what they did was indeed “Type 2 Fun.” No complaints or negativity, mind you, but the experience will stick with them for the rest of their lives. In hindsight, though, they felt that an interim step — last time they ascent Lobster Claw in Tuckerman Ravine — might have been ideal, but the beauty of Type 2 Fun is looking back at it. It was a big step but the team was safe in this attempt so lots of learning, lots of growth, occurred while the boundaries were pushed to their current limits. This epic was led by Redline Guide Debra McCown who led their previous trips. What follows are her words along with photos supplied by her and our guests.
This returning father and daughter team came with a specific request: They wanted to experience Huntington Ravine in winter. Last year, in 2025, they’d climbed Lion Head Winter Route to Lion Head, a windy view spot above Tuckerman Ravine. Previously, in 2024, I’d guided them on the Huntington Ravine Trail in the summer. This time the pair — led by the ambitions of the fierce 13-year-old — wanted to see what the ravine was like in its harshest season. Due to high winds forecast in the morning, we opted for a late start, leaving Pinkham Notch just after 9:00 AM.
The long approach to the ravine allowed time for the wind to die down, and by the time we got there the wind was manageable. We geared up in the trees at the bottom of the Fan and discussed a plan. Their objective was Diagonal Gully, arguably the easiest route up Huntington for those who don’t want to ice climb. They were comfortable as we began our ascent up the fan in the bright sunshine, but it became clear as we reached the steeper terrain below the gully that they were beginning to get out of their comfort zone. We roped up there.
We crossed a short icy spot, and I belayed them from a picket above that. It was then one more pitch of snow — similar to the steepness of Lion Head, but without the psychological security of the trees — to enter the gully itself. At that point — both due to the time and due to their lack of comfort with the terrain — we decided to turn around and descend.
In the end, the guests didn’t complete their objective — but they did accomplish their goal to experience the ravine. They wound up getting out of their comfort zone — and felt like they’d crossed into the territory of Type 2 Fun. But, the dad told me on the way down, ‘This is where the really good things happen.’ It was my third year guiding this adventurous pair, and I hope to see them again! —Debra
