Two days, in a row, without some rain? Is that even possible? Not that rain seems to stop the guides around here. They’re out there hiking and backpacking in it all the same, and even rock climbing — though that part was done between rains, as if by magic. We were worried. The notion of two consecutive days… was it fantasy? As it turned out, however, Redline Guide Glenn Van Neil was able to deftly side step the rain. On day one — over at Woodchuck Ledge — they started early enough to dodge the weather. On day two the opposite was true. The climbers slept in. The intense summer sun was out and the steaming rock of Whitehorse Ledge was beginning to dry. When they finally got to it, things were good and the team was able to send. What follows is Glenn’s summary, complete with some details about their close-call, and some photos:
Weather is always a factor…
Yep, weather is always a factor! Multi day backcountry trips? High mountain summits? Rock climbing? Plan for the best but expect the worse, sometimes it all works out.
On day one we covered all the basics, anchors, rappelling, rope systems, and some movement on rock. Steep vertical stuff to test our ability and gauge our fitness. The rain was coming, but never really materialized. It sprinkled here and there but never really happened. Day two was where we would put it all together with a long multi-pitch climb up Whitehorse Ledge.
And then it rained all night!
Wet slabs are no fun! They just aren’t. The rain all night probably meant a “no go” for day two right? I woke up at 6am to check conditions. The rock was very wet, but the sky was blue. Delayed then reconned again at 8am. Still wet! But the sun was out and there’s a steady breeze blowing across the slabs. They were still too wet at that moment, though. 10am would be our decision time. Thunderstorms were forecast for the late afternoon, 10am was the latest we could go!
Except for the first 25 feet of rock, it was pretty dry! The pockets were filled with water but it looked good to go. The crux may very well have been that first 25 feet of slick rock. We climbed up to the ‘Launch Pad’ then up to ‘The Toilet Bowl’ (seriously it’s really called that), then to ‘The Crystal Pocket,’ ‘The Threaded Arch’ anchor, and then ‘Lunch Ledge!’ There we discussed options and agreed that with the lateness of the day, and how hot it was, we should descend.
After three very long rappels and we were safe, back on the ground. Ten minutes later we were back at our cars. And that’s when the forecast thunderstorms arrived complete with torrential rain and gusty wind. Thank the heavens we weren’t on the slabs when that hit!
It was a great day climbing even if we felt like we were in an oven on the Slabs but, well… Weather is always a factor! —Glenn
